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Use this checklist twice. First at the open home to spot issues before you make an offer, then again at the pre-settlement walk-through to confirm the property and inclusions are in the agreed condition. Covers structural, systems, safety, and external checks tailored for WA buyers.
Which inspection are you doing?
Quickly mark items as OK or Flag while you walk the property. A professional building inspection is still essential. Use this alongside, not instead of, a qualified inspector's report.
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Look for diagonal cracks running from window or door corners, horizontal cracks in brick, gaps between skirting boards and floors, or floors that slope or bounce. In Perth's clay soils these can indicate active subsidence — flag for a structural engineer before proceeding.
Check for efflorescence (white powdery salt deposits on brick or render), especially at low levels — a sign of moisture movement. Look for horizontal tide marks up to 1m high on external walls indicating rising damp. In brick veneer, confirm weep holes at the base of brickwork are open and not blocked by paint, mortar, or built-up soil.
Look for water stains, yellowish patches, or sagging — signs of past or current roof leaks. Tap suspicious areas around cornices; a hollow sound in older homes can indicate deteriorating plasterboard.
Walk every room slowly — feel for bounce (weak joists or subfloor rot), squeaking (loose boards or movement), or dips. In tiled areas, tap tiles across the surface; a hollow sound indicates failed adhesive that will crack under load.
Open and close every window and door. Sticking, binding, or gaps at corners can indicate frame movement or subsidence — a key Perth warning sign. Test all locks, latches, and security stays. Check glass for cracks, chips, or foggy panes (failed double-glazing seals).
Test for wobble or flex underfoot. Handrails must be continuous and firmly fixed to the wall. Check stair treads for cracks, lifting edges, or slippery surfaces.
Open the switchboard. WA law requires at least 2 RCDs — verify they are present and labelled. Look for old-style ceramic fuses (outdated system), DIY wiring, or discolouration indicating heat damage. Test power points in every room with a phone charger.
Run hot and cold water at every tap and check under sinks for drips from supply lines. Flush every toilet and listen for running after the cistern refills. Check water pressure and colour — discolouration or a metallic smell suggests pipe corrosion.
Note the type (gas, electric, or solar) and check the label for the manufacture date — systems over 10 years old are approaching end of life. Look for rust staining around the base of the tank, a dripping pressure relief valve, or discoloured water at the hot tap.
Test every unit — split systems and ducted — in both cooling and heating modes. For ducted systems, stand under each vent and check airflow reaches all zones. Look for water staining around indoor units (blocked condensate drain). Verify remotes are present and outdoor units are clear of vegetation.
Run all reticulation zones from the controller and walk the garden to verify coverage — check for blocked, tilted, or missing sprinkler heads. If a bore is present, run the pump and check water clarity. Ask for the last service date; Perth bores typically need servicing every 2–3 years.
From ground level, check panels for cracked glass or damaged mounting hardware. At the inverter, confirm normal operation (green status light, no fault codes). Request Synergy or Horizon export paperwork, warranty documents, and confirm the system is registered to the property.
Check all gas appliances ignite cleanly with a steady blue flame — a yellow or orange flame indicates incomplete combustion and needs attention. Inspect around the gas meter and exposed lines for any smell or corrosion. Confirm the isolation valve is accessible and clearly labelled.
If the roof space is safely accessible, verify insulation is present and evenly distributed — critical for managing Perth's summer heat. Check it has not been disturbed, compressed, or removed during past roof or electrical work.
From ground level, check terracotta or concrete tiles for cracks, slipping, or missing pieces. For Colorbond or Zincalume, look for wind-lifted panels or rust streaks. Damaged or missing ridge capping is one of the most common Perth roof defects and a primary source of water ingress.
Walk the full perimeter. Gutters should be securely fixed, clear of debris, and slope toward downpipes with no sagging or pooling. Confirm downpipes connect to soak wells or stormwater drains — soak wells are heavily relied on in Perth and can fail in sandy or clay-heavy soils.
Check visible flashings around chimneys, skylights, vents, and roof penetrations. Lead and metal flashings should be tight against surfaces with no lifting, rust, or cracked sealant. Most Perth roof leaks originate at flashings and penetrations, not cracked tiles.
Check render and painted surfaces for peeling, bubbling, or cracking. For limestone walls (common in Perth homes built between the 1960s and 1980s), look for pitting, spalling, and crumbling mortar — salt air and humidity accelerate limestone deterioration in coastal and near-coastal areas.
Check that the land drains away from the house on all sides. Look for low points near the foundation, moss growth suggesting chronic dampness, or evidence of pooling after rain. Poor site drainage is a leading cause of subsidence in Perth soils.
Check boundary fencing is intact, stable, and matches what was presented at inspection. All gates should open, close, and latch firmly. For shared boundary fences, note which side the paling faces and confirm maintenance responsibility.
Look for cracks or sinking in concrete and paving. Dips that direct water toward the house are a subsidence risk in Perth's soils. Check that the driveway crossover is in reasonable condition.
WA law requires hardwired smoke alarms (with battery backup) in all residential properties. Press the test button on every alarm — it must sound immediately. Alarms must be interconnected so activating one triggers all. Battery-only alarms in homes built or significantly renovated after 1997 are likely non-compliant.
WA Electricity Regulations require at least 2 RCDs in every residential property. At the switchboard, press the "T" (test) button on each RCD — it must trip immediately. An RCD that fails to trip needs replacing; this is a seller obligation before settlement.
Up to 75% of WA homes built before 1990 contain asbestos-cement materials in eaves, walls, ceilings, and fences. You cannot identify asbestos by sight alone. If the home predates 1990 and no asbestos clearance report exists, commission a licensed asbestos assessor. Never disturb suspected materials.
Homes built before 1970 may have lead-based paint on walls, trims, and ceilings. Undisturbed lead paint is not an immediate hazard, but any planned renovation requires professional management. Ask the seller for any existing lead paint testing results.
WA pool barriers must be at least 1200mm high with self-closing, self-latching gates and no climbable objects within 900mm of the fence. Test gate operation fully. Any non-compliant pool barrier is the seller's legal responsibility to rectify before settlement.
Check for trip hazards, broken glass, exposed wiring, missing power point covers, and any obvious structural risks. Verify all external steps have handrails that are firmly fixed and continuous.
Download a copy of your checklist anytime — partial reports are fine for early viewings.